Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
